Today I Bought a Towel

When you're packing for a trip to Senegal, there's an elevated level of stress in not forgetting anything. The old "Well, whatever I forget to pack, I can just buy a new one in _______," doesn't apply when traveling to Senegal.

I forgot to pack a towel.

I had $300 cash that I wanted to have exchanged to CFA. Unfortunately, we were unable to do it at the airport when we landed, so later that day, we got in the car to return to the airport.

The traffic was impossibly backed up on the road.


Now, in the United States, that would pose a problem. Not in Senegal. A Senegalese driver does not let gridlock stop him from achieving his destination. I soon saw cars pulling off onto the sidewalk area. No, it was not a paved sidewalk with pedestrians, but it certainly was not road, either. As I was expressing outrage that these drivers were driving in the dirt alongside of the highway, Mamoune pulled our car into the moving traffic in the dust!

After some discussion between YaYa and Mamoune in Wolof, YaYa explained to me that they had decided to give up on trying to get to the airport altogether, as the "invented" road was now backed up, as well.

He said there was someplace in the market where I could exchange my dollars for CFA.

Now me, I thought that meant they knew of a specific destination...a bank, or something. As we started weaving through the market, stopping several times to ask for directions (Senegalese men are very much unlike American men in this regard) I realized that our destination was somewhat undetermined. We stopped at one shop and YaYa and Mamoune visited with the owner. YaYa asked if I wanted to go in and sit down and have tea and visit. I reminded YaYa that it was our daughter's first day in a foreign country, and we had left her alone with Mamoune's Wolof- and French-speaking family, and that I'm sure she'd appreciate us getting back to her as soon as possible.

By now, at least 2 other acquaintances have joined us, and I can understand YaYa explaining that we want to exchange my dollars for CFA. A man dressed in a dark blue boubou arrives and speaks with YaYa. He pulls out a calculator, and the two of them have a 5 minute discussion on the street. Finally, YaYa asks me for my $300 and he and the man go inside the shop. Dollars and CFA are exchanged. I'm realizing how entirely helpless I feel. Not only have I handed all my money to my ex-husband, but I have no idea how much CFA I should be getting. (Note: photo shows about $13 worth of CFA).

Weaving back through the market, we pass a man on the corner with a stack of towels for sale. I remind YaYa that I need to buy a towel before tomorrow's shower. By now, we have at least 4 acquaintances who are "helping" us navigate the market. One of them has an idea of a much better person to buy from, so we continue to weave through the market. I am constantly approached by men and women holding up jewelery, artwork, etc. for me to consider. I would tell each of them no, but they were very, very persistent. One woman in particular followed me three blocks, holding beautiful beaded necklaces on each arm, choosing one necklace at a time to hold up for me to see. At one point, I realize that she's not holding up a necklace, but a beaded thong! My eyes widen, and I can't help the smile that shows up as a result of my surprise. She sees my reaction, and shows me the matching beaded bra. I will admit it was a little bit harder to continue to say "no" after seeing those items...

Finally, we got to the shop we were being taken to. Once again, I'm struck with how helpless I feel here, as conversation begins with the seller and the 6 (yes, SIX! Mamoune, YaYa, and the other 4) men who are all discussing the quality of the towel and the price. I can't understand a word of it, but it's loud and aggressive. I just want a towel that I can use to dry myself off with after a shower. I indicate to YaYa that I like one towel in particular, and after more discussion, it is finally purchased for 5,000 CFA. Here's what a $10 towel looks like in Senegal:

YaYa was also trying to buy sheets and pillowcases for Binta's and my bed, so there's also been conversation about the quality of sheets and the price for a set. Finally, YaYa leaves without the sheets, but that doesn't stop one of the men from chasing after us, all the way back to our car, still trying to get us to buy the sheets! YaYa nearly closes the car door on the man's head!

The sheets were purchased later...we sent Diarra to the market to buy them for us after we returned to Mamoune's house. We've noticed that it helps the negotiating process if there isn't a white American (tubab) involved.

Anyway, I got my towel. And we saved the other things on my shopping list for another day, 'cause this trip pretty much wiped me out.